My
mistress Aratusa
I used to see the boat docked at the foot of the
highway bridge each time I took the bus back from New York City, curious at
first by glimpses of it over the side, and then later, I deliberately sat on
that side to make certain I could see it, as if having it there was like having
an old friend I could see but never touch, but always counted on being there.
The Aratusa was original constructed for the
Maine Central Railroad in 1913, part of the Rangely class of ships, I learned
much later. She did coastal passenger trade out of Portland ,
Maine , and took the elite and famous to their
summer places off the coast of Maine .
Perhaps because my grandfather had become a boat
builder late in life and I was always his little helper tightening screws in
those tight places his massive build could not reach I came to love boats and
those silly statistics boat owners always toss around.
So when exploring later the details of my
invisible friend on the river, I found that the 185-foot long craft had a 1,200
horsepower, single crew engine.
But more importantly, like many of those who I
loved even at a distance, the ship seemed prone to disaster. During her initial
test trials, she struck and uncharted ledge, and while the craft sustained only
minor damage, it seemed a premonition of what she could expect.
Hank, my best friend with whom I frequently
traveled to the city in hunt of girls, never understood my love for lost
causes, and always complained when I hogged the bus window seat on our way back
and certainly didn’t share my love of the old ship or even the vast meadowlands
that stretched out around it, a place I would later come to embrace more fully
when I became a reporter there.
The boat always brought back tender feelings for
my grandfather, who by 1977 was already dead more than ten years, as if I could
not look at her and fail to think of him.
As a reporter, I learned more about my mythical
friend though by that time, it was too late for me to walk her decks or glimpse
inside, things I ached most to do when viewing her from the bus.
I learned later that in 1925, the railroad sold
the ship to the Hudson River Day Line, at which time it was renamed Chauncey M.
Depew after the U.S. Senator from New
York , for its run to Indian Point as the fleet’s luxury
yacht.
In 1940, with the war looming over the Atlantic
coast, the ship was drafted for service by the U.S. Navy for World War II as a
transport for men and supplies between New York City
and Fort Hancock
on Sandy Hook , New Jersey .
After the war, the ship was sold to Benjamin B.
Willis of Washington , D.C.
and used as an excursion and transfer boat in Bermuda ,
serving as a port ferry and cruise ship.
She returned to the United States in 1970 and was sold
to private interests. On her way up the coast to what was supposed to be her
retirement in 1971, she was nearly lost on the breakwater in the Chesapeake Bay as a storm came up suddenly. For three
years, she lay on her side, half-submerged in mud.
She was rescued as salvage by a man named David
Cory. Under U.S.
law, anyone can lay claim to an abandoned ship. Cory had a vision of
transforming the ship into an elegant restaurant, and he leased land in
Secaucus on the banks of the Hackensack
River . The ship was
renamed the Aratusa supper club, and it operated from 1977 to 1987.
Although we both drove by that time, Hank and I
still took the bus in and out of the city and so glimpsed the boat huddled
under the highway arches. At night, when doing my deliveries for cosmetic
company until I got myself fired in mid 1978, I used to see her aglow, the
lights from her windows sparkling on the water at night. During those years, I
made frequent trips to the Jersey shore where my family had moved, always
making a point to cross the bridge and glimpse the ship before taking the
Turnpike south. For some reason, I even remember looking down with satisfaction
the day the first shuttle exploded in the skies above Florida 1,500 miles to the south, as if I
needed the comfort of this friend on the river to keep me moored.
In 1987,
she was struck by another vessel, and it broke my heart.
Witnesses on the scene at the time claim diners eating in
the Aratusa hardly noticed the hit, and had to be escorted off the vessel when
it became clear she had begun to sink. The hull had cracked, making the ship
uninhabitable, and she would no longer rise and fall with the tide.
For the latter part of the 1980s, people driving
over the Hackensack
River Bridge
could see the odd site along the banks just off Meadowlands Parkway , among whom I was one,
always more and more heart broken each time I passed and saw her decline,
knowing that I would never get to walk her decks or sit behind the wheel. Over
the next few years, the boat began to decline – sinking slowly into the mud,
until it became a concern of local officials.
At one point in late 1988, a group from Maine , the Rangely Foundation, expressed interest in
purchasing the boat, raising it, and moving to Maine
where it was slated to become part of the Rangely Museum .
The group, however, needed to get the U.S. Department of the Interior to
declare the boat a national monument so they could seek funding for the
project.
The owner, David Cory, did not have the funds to
raise the ship or repair it, but managed to fence in the property – at the
town’s request.
While the ship was not considered a navigational
hazard, officials feared it might become one if it began to break up. The
75-year old ship was eventually demolished.
Since then, the land that once served as parking
lot has remained vacant, the object of some speculation over the years, but
also the victim of a sagging economy in the late 1980s and early 1990s, and
more than once I walked through that lot, stepping over piles of debris and
over the clumps of dog shit left by local residents who largely walked their
dogs there. I stepped over bits of grass and often settled near the piers where
the boat had stood, thinking of her, and thinking of my grandfather, missing
both.
(A modified version of what appeared in The Secaucus
Reporter in January, 2001)
I asked my wife to marry me on that boat the night before she was hit. We are still married so I guess its not a sign. I loved that boat
ReplyDeleteI worked on the Aratusa in 1984 and 1985 as a hostess. It's a shame that the writer never got to experience the restaurant because it was truly a special place. Prior to service each night the professional and impeccably dressed waiters would polish the wine glasses over a steaming pot of water while setting each table. The chef in the kitchen would gently sauté some garlic in a pan that one of the waiters would then carry quickly through the restaurant, the mouth watering aroma wafting through the dining room, lingering in the air. The doors opened and we hostesses dressed in our white blouses and black pencil skirts greeted guests warmly and brought them to their tables, each with a great view of the river that gently rocked the patrons as they dined and often times celebrated some special occasion. Eventually the second floor of the vessel was transformed into a nightclub that was also very popular. I was sad to hear of what happened to the ship. I have many fond memories of that place.
ReplyDeleteI fell in love with the Chauncey DePew, aka Rangely and later Aratusa, in 1971. My husband-to-be, myself, and our best friend Jack had borrowed Jack's dad's boat for the day when we ran across the ship lying on her side in the mud. I still have an 8x10 B&W photo I took that day of the scene. We were enchanted and she became the stuff of our college daydreams. If only we had salvaged her ourselves!
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